Hocus Pocus

2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
 E4 6a

Adjacent Routes
<< Yellow Edge < New Horizons  |  M1 > Ladder of Desire >>


The towering face right of the arete is taken centrally by this superb and sustained route. Start just to the left of the large corner at the base of the face..
1) 6a, 18m. Move up to and climb a thin crack and wall to a bolt. Pass the bolt leftwards via some fingery moves to a thin horizontal break. Traverse left with difficulty and move up a tiny corner to a good crack, then climb up it to the next set of ledges. Move left to a belay on the arete as for New Horizons..
2) 5c, 20m. Move back right and climb a short crack and wall above the stance to a thread (thin sling needed). Continue in the same line up a little corner, peg, to a prominent peg on the right. Climb past the peg to a lighter band of rock and a peg on the left below a small white corner. Climb the wall right of the white corner, past a peg, to the top.
FA. Martin Corbett, Steve Bell 29.4.1981

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