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A popular pumper that folows a fine, well-protected finger-crack. The rock anchor bolts are out-of-bounds for holds!
Start at the bottom of a thin right-trending crack below an overhang at 7m with a number of massive rock anchors just above it.
Photo on page 43.
18m. Climb the strenuous crack past the overhang and up the grey wall until it fades below a massive ring bolt. Move up to just below the ring bolt (runner only!
) traverse the thin break left and move up to a short crack and easier climbing to the top. Not in current guidebook.
FA. Steve Monks, Paul Newman 18.10.1979
Brilliantly steep, sustained climbing. I found a semi-jug about halfway up the crack; just enough to recover for the final push. Made a hash of clipping the ring bolt though - the obvious line of holds seems to go left just beforehand, leaving it almost out of reach?
Chris Parson - 03/Nov/11
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