Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 3
A fascinating outing that takes in plenty of exciting situations and has some surprisingly difficult moves. The first pitch is at the top of the grade and care is needed to protect the second on the traverses on pitches 3 and 4. Start at a short, well-scratched thin crack.</br>1) 4c, 26m. Climb up past the crack and continue in the same line to a peg and a couple of good nuts just above. Gain the ledge above via a perplexing move before heading left to a short corner that ends at vegetated ledges. Various belays.</br>2) 4b, 10m. Above are two corners right of a big blank wall with bolts in it. Climb up the right-hand corner a metre or so and move right out to the arete and flake-crack just beyond. Climb the flake-crack to a good ledge in a corner up and left. Poor belays.</br>3) 4b, 15m. Climb out right and make some awkward moves diagonally rightwards to a perch on a small ledge. Step down and right and move into the wide corner-crack which is climbed to a ledge belay. It is probably wise to place a runner in the diagonal break above the belay in order to protect the second on the traverse.</br>4) 4b, 20m. Follow the exposed left-trending diagonal breaks with good gear and holds to a tree belay.</br>5) 4a, 10m. Climb the corner above the tree to the first overhang, pull left to an easy gully and finish up this,
A large slab or rock has come off the second pitch of Gronk leaving a big white scar visible from below. This has removed the lower half of the flake crack around the arete from the corner. The rock to the right forming the upper part of the flake crack now appears unsupported and a small flake foothold below also looks unstable. It may be safe;it may be climbable but not at 4b I think., and not by me in the circumstances.
Route seemed fine to me at the given grade as of yesterday. First pitch doesn't get any easier !