Morpheus Top 50

2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
 HVD

Adjacent Routes
<< Banshee < Gronk  |  Sleepwalk > Ffoeg's Folly >>


A long and popular trip that has masses of interesting climbing punctuated with good belay ledges. The climbing is fairly tough in places but these sections are well-protected. Begin at a short wall just right of the thin crack at the start of Gronk..
1) 4a, 28m. Boulder up the short steep wall to a big ledge and a good nut runner. Wander right to an easy-angled blocky corner. Follow the corner for a couple of moves until easy-angled slabs and short walls lead back leftwards to a belay in a little bay at a tall white-stained flake..
2) 16m. Layback up to the top of the flake and move right and up. Continue up short walls slightly right until a move left gains easy ground and a block covered belay ledge which is below a corner with an intermittent wide crack in it..
3) 10m. Climb the corner to an old peg and overcome the next section of the corner by moving right and up. Continue to a good stance on the right. Climbing the corner and wide crack direct is much harder..
4) 12m. Move up to below a small bush and then climb diagonally right to a ledge and the top.
FA. Mike Rhodes, P.Ford 1956

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