Morpheus

2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
 HVD

Adjacent Routes
<< Banshee < Gronk  |  Sleepwalk > Ffoeg's Folly >>


A long and popular trip that has masses of interesting climbing punctuated with good belay ledges. The climbing is fairly tough in places but these sections are well-protected. Begin at a short wall just right of the thin crack at the start of Gronk.</br>1) 4a, 28m. Boulder up the short steep wall to a big ledge and a good nut runner. Wander right to an easy-angled blocky corner. Follow the corner for a couple of moves until easy-angled slabs and short walls lead back leftwards to a belay in a little bay at a tall white-stained flake.</br>2) 16m. Layback up to the top of the flake and move right and up. Continue up short walls slightly right until a move left gains easy ground and a block covered belay ledge which is below a corner with an intermittent wide crack in it.</br>3) 10m. Climb the corner to an old peg and overcome the next section of the corner by moving right and up. Continue to a good stance on the right. Climbing the corner and wide crack direct is much harder.</br>4) 12m. Move up to below a small bush and then climb diagonally right to a ledge and the top.
FA. Mike Rhodes, P.Ford 1956

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