<< Sleepwalk < Ffoeg's Folly | Nightmare > Edgemaster >>
A superb bold and memorable climb taking the blank wall and soaring groove right of Ffoeg's Folly. Start right of the 'starfish' graffiti at the base of the open corner of Ffoeg's Folly.</br>1) 5b, 16m. Move right up an easy sloping ramp to its highest point and then make some fingery wall moves to easier ground and the first belay of Ffoeg's Folly. This is a very bold pitch that is unprotected and is often swapped for the first pitch of Ffoeg's Folly.</br>2) 5c, 24m. Traverse right and climb up to reach a bolt on the left rib of the lower groove, move right and up to a small overhang. Enter the groove above with difficulty and climb boldly to a peg. Continue up the narrowing groove that curves right, before heading up a short corner on the left with a hard-to-spot ring peg at its top, then take the short slab above to a terrace and belay. Move down and right to the large fir tree and abseil off.
FA. Ed Ward Drummond, Cathy Woodhead 1966 (1pt),FFA. Chris Perry 1969