Nightmare Top 50

Adjacent Routes
<< Ffoeg's Folly < Last Slip  |  Edgemaster > Padansac >>

An Avon trade route that, although polished, is still a very classy piece of climbing. It is worth noting that the long runout on the second pitch is not polished. Start at a corner, right of some vegetation. High in the grade..
1) 4a, 12m. Bridge up the corner to below a small overhang and cracked block. Traverse left awkwardly and move up to a small tree and belay ledge just above..
2) 4a, 22m. Pull out right to a ledge beneath a corner. Move up and right around the arete and follow the magnificent line of good holds and ledges boldly rightwards and up to a grassy ledge. Continue to the fir tree belay above with a difficult move to access the ledge..
3) 4a, 20m. Above the fir tree is a right-slanting corner, move up to its start and then traverse right for around 4m to a line of well-used holds on the wall. Climb the wall to an easing and then head left on easy ground to finish.
FA. Mike Thompson, W.Nissin 2 1960