Pink Ginsane
| 3 Stars Technical Pumpy Fluttery | E6 6b |
|
Adjacent Routes << The Lich < Bonbogies | Think Pink > Krapp's Last Tape >>
A very exposed and runout pitch that takes on the blank central section of the pink wall, high on the left side of the face. Start via a scramble to a good ledge directly below the wall..
1) 5a, 30m. Move up a rib and wall on the left to ledges (belay of Krapp's Last Tape and Main Wall Eliminate on the right). Move up and traverse left until a rib can be climbed past a spike to a bulge and peg. Pull up into the groove above the bulge, peg, and climb it until a belay can be taken at some horizontal breaks..
2) 6b, 25m. Move up to the pink wall and clip two bolts above (on Think Pink). Move left and then up a line of holds into the middle of the wall. Climb rightwards, bolt, and then up, bolt, before traversing right into a groove (on Think Pink), bolt. Hard moves out left into a shallow niche are followed by a big runout above it which ends at a peg and better holds. A short bulging section gains a belay ledge and tree on the right..
3) 6b, 13m. Climb a slim groove past a peg and make a long move up the wall above to another peg. Finish leftwards. FFA. Richard Harrison, Derek Carter 20.3.1981
|