| 3 Stars Pumpy Rounded Fluttery | HVS 5a |
|
Adjacent Routes
<< Krapp's Last Tape < Main Wall Eliminate | Central Wall > The Preter >>
Main Wall's most famous line is a fine climb that follows a subtle left-to-right line of weakness through an intimidating rockscape. A classic. Start on a grassy ledge at the base of the line..
1) 5a, 25m. From the left-hand side of the ledge move boldly up a small corner in the blunt arete to double pegs (as for Central Wall). Traverse right, beneath a line of overhangs past a number of pegs to a ledge under a shattered looking wall. Climb up rightwards across the wall to a corner and take this to a peg and nut belay on a slab, 5m below the main line of overhangs..
2) 4b, 32m. Climb up past a peg to the overhang and move over it on good holds. Move rightwards and up a broken rib before heading back leftwards under a line of overhangs until it is possible to gain the base of a wide depression. Climb up the middle of the depression, passing a peg, to an exit left at the very top.
FA. Chris Bonington, G.Francis, H.Rogers 23.10.1957
|
Malbogies