Changeling

3 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
 E5 6b

Adjacent Routes
<< Sinister < Peryl  |  Pink Wall Direct > The Arete >>


An excellent route incorporating a lot of difficult and tenuous climbing as well as some serious situations on the first pitch. Start on Breakfast Ledge.</br>1) 6b, 42m. Follow Lich Gates up its initial groove to a peg and then move carefully up and slightly right to another peg and wires. Make bold moves diagonally left past a poor peg to join Peryl at a peg. Follow Peryl up right to a rest and then back left past pegs and move into a shallow groove with difficulty. From two bolts move up slightly right to 2 pegs and make some final pressing moves to a belay.</br>2) 6b, 12m. Climb up rightwards to a peg and wires, or, up left to a break and a thread and move right and down to the peg. From the peg move up and right to another peg and wires and so on to the top. A committing and exciting pitch.
FA. Richard Harrison, Gordon Jenkin 2.11.1985 (as described)

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    hard E6 0 of 0
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    hard E5 0 of 0
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