Great Central Route

3 Stars
 HVS 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< Original Route < Central Rib  |  Piton Route > Central Buttress >>

An all-time winner finding its way through steep territory on the first pitch and in airy locations on the second. Start by scrambling to a belay at the lowest of three small trees..
1) 5a, 23m. Climb small corners to the highest tree and then climb the wall on the right to the overhangs and a peg. Pull over the overhang past another peg, and traverse right between the overhangs until good holds allow a stiff pull to be made through the second overhang, peg. Climb the rib and step left to a short corner and an awkward stance just above, at the base of a corner below a steep wall..
2) 4c, 45m. Move left around the edge of the steep wall and into a corner, peg. Climb up right to the arete and then with hands on the lip of an overhang traverse back left and pull over the overhang on good holds. Move right once again to the arete and gain the long, easy-angled finishing slab. Not in current guidebook.
FA. Hugh Banner, L.J.Griffin 1953


A very good varied route. But why the sustained symbol?
Charles Moreton - 22/Aug/11

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