Piton Route

2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
 VS 4c

Adjacent Routes
<< Central Rib < Great Central Route  |  Central Buttress > Giant's Cave Buttress >>


A 'Classic Rock' tick taking on the well defined right-to-left diagonal line that slants up the left side of the crest of the buttress. Start at a peg and nut belay at the top of Exhibition Slab..
1) 4c, 20m. Move left 6m to a wide corner. Climb the corner to a peg and the make a precarious sequence of moves left across the wall to an easing. Continue traversing left beneath the overhangs and then step down to a sloping niche and peg and nut belays..
2) 4a, 14m. Step back right and move up and then left to pass the overhang. Climb a slab on the left to a small tree and then continue up a short steep crack to a larger tree and belay..
3) 4b, 24m. Behind and left of the tree is a wall with a borehole. Take the wall via diagonal cracks, steep at first, to an easing up and left. Continue up ledges past a vertical iron spike and then via easier ground to the top and a substantial twin tree belay.
FA. Graham Balcombe 1936 (1pt)

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