Central Buttress Top 50
| E1 5a|
<< Great Central Route < Piton Route | Giant's Cave Buttress > Suspension Bridge Arete >>
A classic and very bold line that gives a memorable climb. Start at a peg and nut belay at the top of the Exhibition Slab, as for Piton Route..
1) 5a, 23m. Climb straight up the blunt rib to a horizontal break, peg. Climb past the break on the right with difficulty and continue straight up to a second break and overlap, pegs. Pull over and climb boldly up and left, to gain a left-facing flake. Once again climb boldly up and left to a belay on a small sloping ledge below the midpoint of a red leaning wall. Poor 8mm bolt, good medium cam, peg and nuts up to the left..
2) 5a, 27m. Move right under the steep wall, pegs, until a dramatic step around the overhangs can be made to gain a good horizontal slot. Step right and up past a hidden pocket in the steep wall to a final pull over the lip that gains an easy slab above. Continue to the top past several small trees (possible belays).
FA. L.J.Griffin, Hugh Banner, 1952
For me not as good as Great Central Route. Felt easy for 5a but I guess it is bold enough to be E1
Charles Moreton - 22/Aug/11
Login to your ROCKFAX account
to add your comments - Search for comments