Giant's Cave Buttress

3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
 VS 4c

Adjacent Routes
<< Piton Route < Central Buttress  |  Suspension Bridge Arete > Suspense >>


A long and very popular route most suited to those who appreciate an audience. The climbing is fairly tricky in places but the belays are comfortable and the views of the suspension bridge spectacular. Start on a sloping ledge at the toe of the buttress with good nut belays in a small corner..
1) 4c, 25m. Move up and step right to a small corner just right of the arete. Make some technical moves on sloping holds up the small corner, before it becomes possible to move back left onto the front face of the buttress and climb a narrow corner to a bulging arete above, peg. Pull awkwardly left around the arete and climb to easier ground that leads to a large belay beneath an overhang..
2) 4a, 23m. Skirt the overhang on the left before heading back right and following short walls and ledges up to another large belay ledge below an overhanging wall..
3) 4c, 25m. Pull left around the arete to a hand-ledge and make a difficult move up to attain a standing position on it. Move left a little way to a corner and climb up to a ledge. Continue up the wall above to a corner and climb this before trending slightly right to the top.
FA. Alan Hicklin, Fred Bennett 1958

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