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Immaculate and intricate face climbing up the pockets and grey wall left of the steep black bulges in the middle of the wall. Start on a ledge at the base of the wall beneath the black bulges..
1) 5b, 33m. Climb the left-hand-crack-system to ledges below the black bulges. Move left to the pocket line and climb up past a thread to a peg on the left wall. Make technical moves left, up and back right to the pocket line and continue to a horizontal break. Climb up right to a stance below a corner..
2) 4b, 12m. Climb the corner to a belay and abseil point at a large rock anchor. Not in current guidebook.
FA. Ed Ward Drummond, Oliver Hill 1966
Can be done in one pitch, but surely it's better to finish left towards the belay on the top of the arete rather than follow the poor pitch up right.
Graham Hoey - 21/Aug/10
I agree: we didn't bother with p2
Charles Moreton - 03/May/11
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