Hell Gates

3 Stars
 HVS 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< GT Special < The Earl of Perth  |  None > None >>

Fun and intriguing climbing that gives a memorable outing.</br>Start at a ledge just to the left of a slim curving crack on the right side of the face.</br>1) 5a, 20m. Climb the wall just left of the crack, joining it at 4m. Follow the crack to ledges and a massive thread just above. Pull steeply through the bulge, thread, and continue past another thread to a body-size circular cave. Belay in the cave, and be sure to search out and sign the visitors' log book. Alternatively; from just below the massive thread, traverse up and rightwards to the base of a small corner and follow this to the lower of two horizontal breaks. Traverse the break left, past a peg, to the body-size circular cave. </br>2) 5a, 12m. Climb steeply out of the cave on the right, peg, and follow a short groove to easier ground and belay on a ledge.</br>3) 4b, 14m. Traverse left around the exposed arete into a corner (junction with Earl of Perth). Continue traversing left for 5m to a peg and climb up 5m to an abseil point at a large metal rock anchor.
FA. Ed Ward Drummond, Hugh Drummond 15.5.1965


Great route...better to combine 1st two pitches into one long lead imho. Exiting the cave feels quite out there at the grade.
Philip - 10/Apr/11

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 3
    hard E1 0 of 1
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