Tricky Dicky Top 50
| 3 Stars Technical Fluttery | E5 6a |
|
Adjacent Routes << Corsican Days < Smashing of Amps | None > None >>
A classic mixture of the bold and technical gives a memorable pitch. Start below a narrow ledge at 8m with an eco bolt just under its lip.
26m. Climb the smooth, pocketed initial wall to gain the bolt and narrow ledge at 8m - bold. Make an awkward mantleshelf on to the ledge, and from its left-hand side, make some fingery moves up and left to join the thin crack of Smashing of Amps and stick in some good nuts. Follow the crack to a resting ledge before tackling the thin continuation seam and crack via some technical and fingery moves to a lower-off just below the top. FA. Paul Smith, Richard Cary 5.1983
|