Tricky Dicky

3 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
 E5 6a

Adjacent Routes
<< Corsican Days < Smashing of Amps  |  None > None >>


A classic mixture of the bold and technical gives a memorable pitch. Start below a narrow ledge at 8m with an eco bolt just under its lip.
26m. Climb the smooth, pocketed initial wall to gain the bolt and narrow ledge at 8m - bold. Make an awkward mantleshelf on to the ledge, and from its left-hand side, make some fingery moves up and left to join the thin crack of Smashing of Amps and stick in some good nuts. Follow the crack to a resting ledge before tackling the thin continuation seam and crack via some technical and fingery moves to a lower-off just below the top. Not in current guidebook.
FA. Paul Smith, Richard Cary 5.1983

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