| VS 4b|
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One of the longest, most alluring and serious VS climbs in the West Country, Wrecker's Slab is nevertheless the most attempted of its genre on the coast. The huge, slim slab rising from the beach on the far right-hand side of the cliff has very little in the way of technical difficulty but should not be underestimated as the rock is poor, protection spaced and the situations very serious. Start at the base of the slab just right of the overhangs.
1) 4a, 35m. Make a couple of tricky moves to easier ground and work out leftwards along an easy-angled section of slab to the arete. Climb a loose corner groove just right of the arete to a good peg and then move up and right on more loose rock to a footledge stance and peg belays plus good nut belays 5m above..
2) 4b, 45m. Climb directly to the overlaps and pull through them onto the slab above. Climb the slab to a belay at a pillar on a grass terrace..
3) 4a, 45m. Climb up past the pillar to the easy-angled upper wall and follow this on its left side to the top of the slab and belay. A short scramble along a ridge is needed to finish. Not in current guidebook.
FA. Tom Patey, John 'Zeke' Deacon, Keith Lawder 1959
A superb atmospheric outing.
Very straight forward climbing which, without the exposure and spaced gear (plenty of solid pegs take the sting out this) would be VD at max. Call it S or HS and possibly 4a max.
Also Cornakey is in Cornwall, not Devon :-)
GrahamD - 26/Sep/11
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