| E3 5c|
<< Right Angle < Behemoth | Black Magic > Shark >>
A great route with fly-on-the wall style situations on a subtle right-to-left line across the sheer back wall of the zawn. The start is often damp, and care is needed in setting up a solid belay at the end of the first pitch. If the sea is rough or the tide high, it is usual to abseil to the first stance and do only the top two pitches. Start from a belay at the base of Shark..
1) 5b, 22m. From the belay, climb up left to a niche at the base of a crack in the wall left of Shark's corner. Immediately traverse left to another niche in a crack. Climb the crack to a move leftwards and a tiny stance and hanging belay..
2) 5c, 18m. Move left and up to the base of a thin crack via an awkward move. Climb the thin crack. At its end, traverse rightwards to a stance in the left-leaning corner..
3) 5c, 10m. The steep crack-line above the stance provides a pumpy climax. Not in current guidebook.
FA. Rowland Edwards, Sam Salmon 3.9.1978
One of the UK's greatest wall climbs. Absolutely superb from start to finish. Doable in a oner too!
Jon Stewart - 03/Aug/14
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