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Delightful climbing on fabulous rock. One of the better Severes at Bosigran. Start on a high, flat ledge left of Black Slab.
1) 4a, 23m. Move up a corner on the left side of the slab and swing out left at the overhang on big holds. Climb up to a small overlap and move right and up onto the slab that leads up to the large overhang. Move right to belay.
2) 4a, 9m. Make some fingery moves up the wall left of the large overhang and follow cracks leftwards to finish. Not in current guidebook.
Lovely route, splabndid situation. A little undergraded perhaps? That traverse move felt more like 4c. Mind you it was damp
Derek Morton - 10/Sep/11
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