Ochre Slab Route l
| HVS 5a|
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A popular and rewarding climb that consists of two totally contrasting pitches; the first technical and the second super steep. Start on a high flat ledge left of Black Slab.
1) 4c, 24m. Pull onto the slab. Climb rightwards to its edge and move up to where it meets the steep wall above. Make technical moves up and right to a black vein and follow this more easily, moving right after 5m, to a belay below the overhanging corner at the right-hand end of the large overhang.
2) 5a, 8m. Climb the overhanging corner, perplexing but well-protected, and pull over the lip on massive holds to easier ground. A wild pitch. Not in current guidebook.
FA. Trevor Peck, Peter Biven 3.1956
Im sure this was VS when I did it 5 years ago, and Im sure Zig-zag, Anvil Chorus and Little Brown Jug were all harder...
Good route though.
Si dH - 09/Jul/10
VS 4c - with the crux being pitch 1. Pitch 2 is straight forward, well protected, chimneying to jugs. As above - LBJ, and AC are much harder (not done Zig-Zag). Absolutely no way is this HVS.
Alan Smith - 06/May/11
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