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The large, overhanging corner is one of Bosigran's most coveted Extreme testpieces. It stays damp a lot longer than most of the other routes. Start 5m right of the large spike at a corner.
36m. Climb the corner to an overhang and pass it on the left. Move up to the main corner and make technical moves up it to an overhang. Steep climbing past the overhang is rewarded by better holds on the right wall that enable a swing right out onto the arete and a rest. Move back into the corner and follow it to its end and the top just above. Photo on page 22. Not in current guidebook.
FFA. Pat Littlejohn 1977
FAA. John Deacon, Rawdon Goodier 19.9.1955