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The major Bosigran classic that combines superb rock, climbing and position in about equal measures. Start at a broken corner below the leaning brown wall capped with overhangs..
1) 4a, 27m. Scramble up the broken corner past a block to a point at which a diagonal break leads up rightwards under the leaning brown wall. Follow the diagonal break all the way to a belay on a ledge at its end. This pitch can seep after rain..
2) 4b, 15m. Climb twin cracks on the left, at first using the left one and then the right to another good ledge and belay..
3) 4a, 25m. Move out left and follow cracks and huge holds up the left wall of the corner, finishing just left of the capping overhangs. Not in current guidebook.
FA. Barrie Biven, Trevor Peck, Pete Biven 7.8.1955