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A popular Extreme, which has a particularly attractive first pitch that is often climbed in its own right. Start below a diagonal black seam at a finger ledge above a low horizontal break. Photo on page 201..
1) 5b, 26m. Move up to, and stand on the finger ledge. Follow the thin line leftwards to a small overhang and continue up the technical crack to an easing below the steep wall above. Follow the diagonal line rightwards to a belay on a ledge..
2) 11m. Continue up easily to a good ledge and belay below the huge upper corner..
3) 5a, 28m. Climb the corner all the way to the capping roofs and exit right via some very spectacular moves.
FA. Pete Biven, Trevor Peck 26.5.1956 (1pt)
First pitch hard if you're not used to that style of climbing. Finish of pitch 3 is wild!
Paul Evans - 21/Aug/10
Fine technical climbing on p1; p3 more intimidating than hard
Charles Moreton - 03/May/11
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