Visions of Johanna
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A much-talked-about first pitch is followed by easier but still worthwhile climbing. E1 if you don't fall off!
Start just to the left of the right edge of the wall..
1) 5b, 23m. Climb to below a small overhang and make a couple of committing moves up to, and then past it on the right (small wires). Continue directly up the lovely wall to a belay on a good ledge next to a huge flake..
2) 5a, 35m. Move up big ledges to where the rock steepens. Climb steep cracks heading for a black stain in an overlap above. Pull over the overlap, peg, and then step left. Move leftwards once again up a slab to the base of a chimney. Climb the chimney exiting onto easy ground, the top is not far above. Not in current guidebook.
FA. Mark Springett, Frank Cannings, Pete Biven 13.4.1968