Visions of Johanna
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A much-talked-about first pitch is followed by easier but still worthwhile climbing. E1 if you don't fall off! Start just to the left of the right edge of the wall.</br>1) 5b, 23m. Climb to below a small overhang and make a couple of committing moves up to, and then past it on the right (small wires). Continue directly up the lovely wall to a belay on a good ledge next to a huge flake.</br>2) 5a, 35m. Move up big ledges to where the rock steepens. Climb steep cracks heading for a black stain in an overlap above. Pull over the overlap, peg, and then step left. Move leftwards once again up a slab to the base of a chimney. Climb the chimney exiting onto easy ground, the top is not far above.
FA. Mark Springett, Frank Cannings, Pete Biven 13.4.1968