Venusberg

2 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
 VS 4c

Adjacent Routes
<< Visions of Johanna < Doorway  |  Anvil Chorus > Ledge Climb >>


Disjointed but technically one of the more testing VSs at Bosigran and also slightly runout on its main pitch. Start at the base of the low-angled corner groove..
1) 4a, 11m. Move up the corner until a flake-crack on the right wall can be gained. Climb the flake-crack to a mantleshelf next to a thorny bush and a good belay below a pinnacle just above..
2) 4b, 12m. Chimney up the left side of the pinnacle and from its top move left to a narrow slanting corner. Technical moves up this quickly lead to a large belay ledge..
3) 6m. Walk left along a narrow grassy ledge to a belay below a thin black seam..
4) 4c, 13m. Climb up to the base of the black seam. Hard moves followed by a short runout are rewarded with a rest out to the left before some awkward moves up and right gain a restricted belay in a corner under a roof..
5) 4b, 9m. Move up the corner and pass the roof with dificulty before a black vein on the left can be used to finish.
FA. Pete Biven, Cliff Fishwick 30.4.1961

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