<< Doorway < Venusberg | Ledge Climb > Andrew >>
A string of superb and intense pitches make up for the rather wandering line. High in the grade. Start at a thin line of weakness in the wall just right of the low-angled corner groove..
1) 4b, 10m. Climb the wall and thin cracks directly to a tricky exit onto a large belay ledge next to a thorny bush..
2) 4b, 12m. Take a good crack in a corner to a roof at its top and pull around this on the right to another good belay ledge..
3) 6m. Walk left along a narrow grassy ledge to a belay below a thin black seam, as for Venusburg..
4) 4c, 18m. Move up right to the base of a steep corner and climb this with difficulty to a horizontal break that can be followed rightwards across the wall to a belay on its edge..
5) 4b, 8m. Move up left to a break and climb the thin crack above to finish. Not in current guidebook.
FA. Pete Biven, Trevor Peck, Barrie Biven 19.5.1956