The Dream/Liberator

3 Stars
Pumpy
 E3 6a

Adjacent Routes
<< Green Cormorant Face < Deja Vu  |  The West Face > Xanadu >>


One of the region's greatest climbs that wends its way up the sensational arete dividing the Seaward and West Faces of the Great Zawn. The climbing is at the very upper limit of the grade. Start by negotiating 'The Crevasse' and then traversing right 7m to a stance in a small corner. Photo on page 213..
1) 5a, 9m. Traverse right, around the arete into another corner and ascend this to a stance just above..
2) 6a, 23m. Climb up the corner and then swing right at a horizontal break to below a right-leaning groove. Make some tricky moves up its right wall to below an overhang and pull leftwards through it, hard, to a thin crack in the wall above it. Follow the shallow ramp-line up the wall to a break, and traverse this right,past a peg, to a hanging stance on a foot-ledge just around the arete. The belays are hard to find but there is a good large cam in the crack above the stance..
3) 5c, 32m. Climb the steep cracks and narrowing small corner above until a sensational traverse right, below an overhang, can be made into the base of a long corner and thin crack. Follow this and the continuation groove to the top.
FFA. (Liberator) Ron Fawcett, Pete Livesey 4.1976
FAA. (The Dream) M.Gulliard, R.Wilson 12.1968
FFA. (The Dream) Pete Livesey 6.1976
FA. (Liberator) Frank Cannings, Pat Littlejohn 24/25.5.1970

USER COMMENTS

An outrageous sandbag. Closer to E5 6b.
Jon Stewart - 04/Jul/14

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