Xanadu

3 Stars
Pumpy
 E2 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< The Dream/Liberator < The West Face  |  Desolation Row > None >>


The east facing wall of Great Zawn is carved by an eye-catching left curving corner, which provides the line for this tremendous route. The climbing is remarkably diverse but the line takes some time to dry out. Start below the corner-line on boulders at the mouth of the zawn.</br>1) 5b, 25m. Climb the corner which is steep and sustained, but takes plenty of gear, to a stance under an overhang.</br>2) 5b, 20m. Move up and then work leftwards below the overhangs until it is possible to move up to the overhangs from where more leftward traversing gains a belay below a wide crack in the overhang above. A slightly bold and technical pitch.</br>3) 5b, 10m. Pull up steeply through the overhang and get stuck into the wide crack which is thankfully not too long. A large cam is useful on this pitch. A vague climbers' path sometimes leads through bracken around the head of the zawn back to the top of the abseil and the gearing-up ledge.
FA. Pat Littlejohn, Ian Duckworth 4.1970

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