Xanadu

3 Stars
Pumpy
 E2 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< The Dream/Liberator < The West Face  |  Desolation Row > None >>


The east facing wall of Great Zawn is carved by an eye-catching left curving corner, which provides the line for this tremendous route. The climbing is remarkably diverse but the line takes some time to dry out. Start below the corner-line on boulders at the mouth of the zawn..
1) 5b, 25m. Climb the corner which is steep and sustained, but takes plenty of gear, to a stance under an overhang..
2) 5b, 20m. Move up and then work leftwards below the overhangs until it is possible to move up to the overhangs from where more leftward traversing gains a belay below a wide crack in the overhang above. A slightly bold and technical pitch..
3) 5b, 10m. Pull up steeply through the overhang and get stuck into the wide crack which is thankfully not too long. A large cam is useful on this pitch. A vague climbers' path sometimes leads through bracken around the head of the zawn back to the top of the abseil and the gearing-up ledge.
FA. Pat Littlejohn, Ian Duckworth 4.1970

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