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A prized pitch that is very sustained but can be adequately protected by a very large number of small wires. Take extra quickdraws. Start near the left edge of the Upper West Face where a shallow groove is capped by a small overhang.
40m. Enter the groove from the right and climb to a small overhang. At the small overhang move up and left around the arete. Climb past the right end of a huge roof and then move right with difficulty to join cracks which are followed all the way to the top. Move up steep grass to find a belay.
FA. Frank Cannings, Pat Littlejohn 14.9.1969
Outstanding and steady climbing, reasonably protected with small cams etc but to a scary earth slope finish!
peter beaumont - 19/Jul/12
Protection feels 'reasonable' rather than outstanding and there are a lot of committing moves. Absorbing !
Really good belay available high up and left (facing in) which isn't too bad to get to. However, its probably worth treating the grass slope from here back to the abseil spike as a pitch in its own right !
GrahamD - 22/Apr/14
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