<< Longships Wall < New Editions | None > None >>
A fabulous route that is packed with plenty of interesting pitches and spectacular situations. The climb also benefits from being well above the clutches of the tide during calm and moderate seas. Some of the pitches are serious for both leader and second and care is needed with protection. Start at a wide crack at the base of the buttress..
1) 16m. Climb the wide crack and its continuation above a wide break to a large ledge. Belay at its back, below a corner-crack..
2) 9m. The 'Elbow Crack'. Climb the fine, well-protected corner-crack to a belay next to a tilted block that forms a slab..
3) 15m. Climb the centre of the slab to its top. Drop down, cross a wide gap and move up to belay below a short wall with a crack in it..
4) 6m. Climb the short wall via cracks to a good ledge and belay..
5) 12m. Move right to the base of a wide chimney and bridge up this until it is possible to transfer to the landward wall of the chimney. Climb the wall until a final pull up right gains a good belay..
6) 10m. Move down and across to a wall that must be traversed right via a short but precarious move into the base of a large gully and belay..
7) 10m. Traverse right again around a rib to a ledge and then climb the short steep cracks to another good ledge and belay below a lichen-covered wall - 'The Green Face'..
8) 7m. 'The Green Face'. Climb the steep lichen-covered wall above the stance to the top via a left-trending weakness. A tough pitch at the grade. Not in current guidebook.
FA. Royal Marines 1946