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Amazing positions on the second pitch make this a memorable route that luckily has a bark far worse than its bite!
Start at the wide crack/gully beneath the red tower, a distinct feature of the left side of the buttress..
1) 12m. Climb up via the easiest line and belay on a ledge below the sheer red wall on the left..
2) 4a, 13m. An intimidating pitch. Climb the sheer red wall to the left on surprisingly good holds to a ledge..
3) 4a, 12m. Climb up to the summit of the buttress and make a stride across to a chimney on the left and follow it to a large ledge..
4) 4a, 17m. Take the line of cracks from the back of the ledge, that lead steeply at first, to easier ground and the top.
FA. Jim Courtlandt-Simpson, Eric Stones 1947