<< Rake's Progress < Red Wall | Pendulum Chimney > South Face Direct >>
A long and varied line-up of steep pitches build to an exposed climax on the final headwall. Start left of the base of East Gully..
1) 4b, 13m. Climb three square-cut corners to a large ledge..
2) 5a, 15m. On the left of the ledge are two parallel rounded cracks. Take these steeply, and the crack above, to another good belay ledge..
3) 5a, 17m. Climb easily to another ledge in an overhung recess. Take the steep right hand corner to the overhang and pull right to an exposed ledge and belay..
4) 5b, 12m. Move right beneath the wall to a line of weakness and climb to a black streak. Climb the black streak on small holds to a break and make a final tricky sequence to pass it. The top is just above.
FA. Viv Stevenson, John Deacon 25.10.1959
There aren't really any 5b moves on top pitch but it is bold. A bit disjointed but good climbing.
andy m - 02/Sep/10
Didn't find it that bold good cam placements. found lower crack pitch harder than top pitch
Andrew Phillips - 29/Sep/10
Filthy when I did this in Easter.
mark20 - 29/Oct/11
Login to your ROCKFAX account
to add your comments - Search for comments