Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 3
The classic of this buttress does not disappoint. The climbing is well-protected and can be climbed at highish tides during calm seas by making a straightforward abseil approach down East Gully and belaying on high ledges at the start of the first pitch.</br></br>1) 4a, 13m. Move up easily to the base of a wide crack. Take the crack that leads up left to a large belay ledge.</br>2) 4a, 12m. Move up to the V-chimney behind the stance and climb it before making a move right and up to a guano stained belay ledge.</br>3) 4a, 10m. Move right to a steep crack and climb to a belay ledge.</br>4) 4b, 12m. The wide crack/chimney above leads to a niche from which harder climbing accesses a ledge and belay.</br>5) 4a, 12m. Continue up short corners, past ledges, to the top of the cliff.
Worth splitting the pitches as described rather than running together as all the belay positions are superb.
The final pitch description "to the top of the cliff" isn;t quite right, it finishes on a pinnacle away from the main cliff.