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Adjacent Routes
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The classic of this buttress does not disappoint. The climbing is well-protected and can be climbed at highish tides during calm seas by making a straightforward abseil approach down East Gully and belaying on high ledges at the start of the first pitch.
Photo on page 184..
1) 4a, 13m. Move up easily to the base of a wide crack. Take the crack that leads up left to a large belay ledge..
2) 4a, 12m. Move up to the V-chimney behind the stance and climb it before making a move right and up to a guano stained belay ledge..
3) 4a, 10m. Move right to a steep crack and climb to a belay ledge..
4) 4b, 12m. The wide crack/chimney above leads to a niche from which harder climbing accesses a ledge and belay..
5) 4a, 12m. Continue up short corners, past ledges, to the top of the cliff.
FA. J.Courtland-Simpson, Eric Stones 1947
USER COMMENTS
Worth splitting the pitches as described rather than running together as all the belay positions are superb.
Simon Caldwell - 04/Sep/11
The final pitch description "to the top of the cliff" isn;t quite right, it finishes on a pinnacle away from the main cliff.
A description of the descent would be useful. A selection of slings suggested that many people ab off. We downclimbed to the notch followed by an exposed scramble towards the main cliff, we should probably have stayed roped up for this.
Simon Caldwell - 04/Sep/11
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Pendulum Chimney