South Face Direct

3 Stars
 VS 4c

Adjacent Routes
<< Pendulum Chimney < Pegasus  |  Rake's Progress > Aerial >>

Beautiful climbing and positions mark out this route as one of West Penwith's most sought-after VSs. The route can be climbed at high tide during calm seas by making a straightforward abseil approach down East Gully and belaying on high ledges at the start of the first pitch. Start on a good ledge at a crack on the left wall of East Gully, around 10m up from the bottom of the crag.</br>1) 4a, 14m. Climb the crack to a belay ledge on the left. The ledge is just below where the crack thins.</br>2) 4c, 20m. Climb up the thin crack-system with difficulty, which soon eases, and continue up the crack to a large mushroom shaped blob. Use the blob to move right into a short corner and follow it to a stance on a good ledge.</br>3) 4c, 12m. Take the steep crack above, passing the last bulging section with difficulty. Move left to a stance and belay on a long ledge. </br>4) 4a, 13m. Move right and up behind a large perched block and follow cracks up a wall to the top of the buttress.
FA. Jim Courtlandt-Simpson, Eric Stones 1948


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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 3
    hard HVS 0 of 1
    HVS 0 of 1
    easy HVS 0 of 1
    hard VS 1 of 1
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    HS 0 of 1
    easy HS 0 of 1
    hard 5a 0 of 1
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    easy 5a 0 of 1
    hard 4c 1 of 1
    4c 0 of 1
    easy 4c 0 of 1
    hard 4b 0 of 1
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