<< Aerial < Caliban | Diocese > The Spire >>
Space-walking stuff on its final pitch and with plenty of interesting climbing throughout. Quite tough at the grade. Start above the 'Suicide Pool' at a deep, narrowing chimney..
1) 4b, 24m. Bridge up the chimney and where it narrows move out onto its left rib. This point can also be gained by climbing the corner-crack right of the chimney to a ledge and then moving left. Move up and then step right to a ledge on the main buttress. Climb to a small stance at the left end of the roof that comes in from the right. This pitch can be split above the initial chimney..
2) 4a, 17m. Traverse rightwards above the lip of the overhang and follow cracks up the centre of the wall in a fantastic position until a leftward line can be followed to a big ledge and belay blocks..
3) 4b 11m. The line of steep thin cracks above the centre of the ledge provides an excellent but short lived finish. Not in current guidebook.
FA. Royal Marines 1949