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A classic expedition up the seaward side of the large tooth-topped pinnacle, the summit of which can be seen in the lower reaches of Pinnacle Gully. There are two starts described the second being VS, a fine pitch but more difficult and serious than the rest of the climb. Start at the base of a steep and rounded vertical crack in the middle of the buttress..
1) 18m. From the base of the steep crack move up leftwards to a wide rounded crack in the corner on the left and follow this to a ledge. Move up the wall and crack leftwards to a good ledge and belay..
1a) VS 4b, 17m. Climb the tricky stepped vein in the wall 5m left of the steep rounded crack to a good small spike runner. Pull up to easier terrain and climb the wall just right of the arete to a good ledge and belay. Photo oppposite..
2) 10m. Take the steep crack above the ledge on good holds to another ledge and belay..
3) 12m. Climb up the corner behind the stance and move right onto the front of the pinnacle, beneath a wide crack in the summit block. Move up into the crack and climb to the summit.Descent - Either stay roped-up and downclimb the steep wall to the left (looking up the gully) at Diff standard, or abseil from a prominent spike on the landward side of the summit.
FA. J.Mallory, M.Roster 24.3.1940
FA. J.Barford, F.Feilden 25.8.1940 (Variation first pitch)
Does anyone know more about the damage to pitch 1 in last winters storms?
Derek Morton - 07/Sep/14
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