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A classic expedition up the seaward side of the large tooth-topped pinnacle, the summit of which can be seen in the lower reaches of Pinnacle Gully. A rock fall has destroyed the original first pitch and the route is now significantly harder. Start at the base of The Pinnacle, at a vague ramp in newly-exposed rock, which leads right to a prominent left-facing corner.
1) 4b, 18m. Climb the ramp and corner to ledges on the right, pinnacle belay up left.
2) 10m. Take the steep crack above the ledge on good holds to another ledge and belay.
3) 12m. Climb up the corner behind the stance and move right onto the front of the pinnacle, beneath a wide crack in the summit block. Move up into the crack and climb to the summit.
Descent - Either stay roped-up and downclimb the steep wall to the left (looking up the gully) at Diff standard, or abseil from a prominent spike on the landward side of the summit.
FA. J.Mallory, M.Roster 24.3.1940
FA. J.Barford, F.Feilden 25.8.1940 (Variation first pitch)
Does anyone know more about the damage to pitch 1 in last winters storms?
Derek Morton - 07/Sep/14
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