Martell Slab
| 3 Stars Technical Pumpy | VS 4c |
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Adjacent Routes << None < Crow's Nest Ordinary | None > None >>
An often overlooked classic on a fine crag. The climbing and line are intricate and in its lower reaches on compact rock that requires crisp conditions. The first pitch is high in the grade. Start in the back of the recess at a short, thin corner-crack.
Photo on this page..
1) 4c, 18m. Step up into the thin corner-crack from the right and climb it for a couple of metres before stepping onto the slab on the left. Move up to a niche and high runners. Bridge up to good hand holds above the niche and step left to a crack. Follow the crack until the slab on its left can be climbed to a fine ledge and belay..
2) 8m. Traverse rightwards on easy ground to a good ledge below a steep corner..
3) 4b, 17m. Climb the steep corner and then move left to another. Follow the corner to an overhang and pull leftwards on good holds to clear it before a short wall gains the top. FA. John Deacon, Derek Holroyd 1957
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