Moonraker

3 Stars
Pumpy
 HVS 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< None < Goddess of Gloom  |  Dreadnought > Seventh Dread >>


One of the UK's greatest HVSs. A stunning atmosphere and position, with steep climbing on big holds. Start at a hanging belay just above the high-water mark and 6m right of the first good tidal ledge reached on the approach traverse.
Photo on pages 341..
1) 5a, 27m. Make a diagonal traverse up right to a slight rib past a peg, climb round the rib to the base of a steep crack. Climb the crack to a chockstone, then traverse up leftwards across the wall to a stance on a ledge at the base of a corner-crack..
2) 4c, 17m. Climb the corner to a steepening, then head left across the wall to a comfortable stance on a pedestal. Peg, thread and sling belay..
3) 5a, 32m. Move out right to the base of a steep corner-crack. Climb the crack on good holds to an easing at its top. Move left to a smooth walled corner-crack and jam and layback up this all the way to the top. Belay on a large metal pole.
FA. Frank Cannings, Pete Biven, Pat Littlejohn 17.9.1967 (as described)

USER COMMENTS

The belay can be reached by a 50m abseil from the edge of the crag. The belay post is 10m back from the edge. Pitches 2 and 3 can be linked to miss out the guano-covered belay. Good climbing, but if it was any harder than HVS it wouldn't get 3 stars.
Graham Hoey - 21/Aug/10

There is no chockstone on pitch one, but a natural thread in the crack.
Graham Hoey - 21/Aug/10

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.

  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 6
    hard E1 0 of 2
    E1 0 of 2
    easy E1 0 of 2
    hard HVS 0 of 2
    HVS 2 of 2
    easy HVS 0 of 2
    hard VS 0 of 2
    VS 0 of 2
    easy VS 0 of 2
    hard 5b 0 of 2
    5b 0 of 2
    easy 5b 0 of 2
    hard 5a 0 of 2
    5a 0 of 2
    easy 5a 2 of 2
    hard 4c 0 of 2
    4c 0 of 2
    easy 4c 0 of 2
    3 Stars 1 of 2
    2 Stars 1 of 2
    1 Star 0 of 2
    0 Stars 0 of 2
    Bag of ..... 0 of 2

    Please Login to your Rockfax account to rate this climb.