Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 6
One of the UK's greatest HVSs. A stunning atmosphere and position, with steep climbing on big holds. Start at a hanging belay just above the high-water mark and 6m right of the first good tidal ledge reached on the approach traverse. </br>1) 5a, 27m. Make a diagonal traverse up right to a slight rib past a peg, climb round the rib to the base of a steep crack. Climb the crack to a chockstone, then traverse up leftwards across the wall to a stance on a ledge at the base of a corner-crack.</br>2) 4c, 17m. Climb the corner to a steepening, then head left across the wall to a comfortable stance on a pedestal. Peg, thread and sling belay.</br>3) 5a, 32m. Move out right to the base of a steep corner-crack. Climb the crack on good holds to an easing at its top. Move left to a smooth walled corner-crack and jam and layback up this all the way to the top. Belay on a large metal pole. Not in current guidebook.
The belay can be reached by a 50m abseil from the edge of the crag. The belay post is 10m back from the edge. Pitches 2 and 3 can be linked to miss out the guano-covered belay. Good climbing, but if it was any harder than HVS it wouldn't get 3 stars.
There is no chockstone on pitch one, but a natural thread in the crack.