Seventh Dread

3 Stars
Pumpy
 E1 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Moonraker < Dreadnought  |  Savage Earthsea > Caveman >>


Although a linking pitch, this inventive section of climbing allows the magnificent lower section of Moonraker to be connected to the wild headwall of Dreadnought. </br>1) 5a, 27m. (Pitch 1 of Moonraker). Make a diagonal traverse up right to a slight rib past a peg, climb round the rib to the base of a steep crack. Climb the crack to a chockstone, then traverse up leftwards across the wall to a stance on a ledge at the base of a corner-crack.</br>2) 5b, 24m. Climb the corner above the stance to its top (as for Moonraker). Move right into a wide crack/chimney, exit this right and move down to a ledge. From the right-hand end of the ledge climb steeply to another good ledge.</br>3) 5b, 23m. (Pitch 3 of Dreadnought). Move left out of the cave and climb steep ground to a narrow groove on the right which is followed to a ledge. Ascend the leaning wall above to an overhang and pull though this with difficulty to better holds and easier climbing to the top. Not in current guidebook.
FA. Frank Cannings, Pat Littlejohn, Pete Biven 5.4.1969 (as part of the girdle traverse The Seventh Circle.

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