Savage Earthsea

3 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
 E6 6c

Adjacent Routes
<< Dreadnought < Seventh Dread  |  Caveman > Yardarm >>


An incredible link-up that forces a chilling line through some of the Great Cave's most daunting territory. Start 8m to the right of Moonraker's tidal ledges at a short corner below a roof..
1) 5b, 16m. Traverse rightwards between two bands of overhangs to a niche. Pull up rightwards to easier ground and take a hanging belay below a right-leaning rib above..
2) 6c, 20m. Climb up steeply until it is possible to make a bunched traverse rightwards past pegs and threads. Make a safe, but very hard move into, and out of an open groove to gain sloping holds above. Continue up on good holds to a bush, then traverse left above the roof to a hanging stance below the corner and capping roof of Dreadnought..
3) 6b, 20m. Climb up the corner to the roof. Move left to gain a thin horizontal flake which is followed out over the lip of the roof to some hard moves past a square block to the bulge above, peg. Pull through the bulge, thread, and small overlap above to gain a thin break, peg. With difficulty, climb the groove above to an overlap then head up leftwards to a peg-belay..
4) 6a, 32m. Move left to a white scoop and climb it to a vague break in a long overhang. Pull through the overhang to flat holds that lead rightwards, thread, to a ledge. Climb the short groove to a blank face above, past a peg, and make hard moves up until better holds lead out right to a ledge. Finish on good holds above.
FA. Steve Mayers 9.1992 Savage
FA. Nick White, Dave Thomas 16.8.1989 The Earthsea Trilogy part 3

USER COMMENTS

No comments on this route. Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.

  • Route Grade Votings

    hard E7 0 of 0
    E7 0 of 0
    easy E7 0 of 0
    hard E6 0 of 0
    E6 0 of 0
    easy E6 0 of 0
    hard E5 0 of 0
    E5 0 of 0
    easy E5 0 of 0
    hard 7a 0 of 0
    7a 0 of 0
    easy 7a 0 of 0
    hard 6c 0 of 0
    6c 0 of 0
    easy 6c 0 of 0
    hard 6b 0 of 0
    6b 0 of 0
    easy 6b 0 of 0
    3 Stars 0 of 0
    2 Stars 0 of 0
    1 Star 0 of 0
    0 Stars 0 of 0
    Bag of ..... 0 of 0

    Please Login to your Rockfax account to rate this climb.