Caveman

3 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
 E6 6b

Adjacent Routes
<< Seventh Dread < Savage Earthsea  |  Yardarm > Magical Mystery Tour >>


A wild and committing trip into one of the UK's most outrageous sections of sea-cliff. Start 8m to the right of Moonraker's tidal ledges at a short corner below a roof..
1) 5b, 20m. Traverse rightwards between two bands of overhangs to a niche, then pull up rightwards to easier ground. Continue traversing to a red corner below a steep wall and a belay..
2) 6b, 15m. Climb up to the roof (old peg) and make a wildly committing move up and right past a fixed nut. Continue steeply rightwards on jugs to a restricted belay in a red corner..
3) 6a, 16m. Make a difficult move off the belay to join a hand-crack which is followed out around the lip to a constricted rest. Traverse down rightwards for 5m to a peg-belay..
4) 6a, 26m. Traverse back left to where some difficult moves reach a cramped hanging wall. Keep moving leftwards past a bush to join Dreadnought at its corner. Follow the corner and traverse rightwards under the roof to the Dreadnought belay..
5) 5b, 28m. Climb up Dreadnought's hanging groove before moving right at the capping overhang to a shallow groove. Ascend the groove to another shallow groove which leads to the left end of an oblong roof, traverse rightwards beneath this to a short groove which is followed to a small stance..
6) 5b, 20m. Move left and climb through the overhang to gain an awkward crack, ascend this and continue direct to the top.
FA. Andy Meyers, Mick Fowler 11.1982

USER COMMENTS

No comments on this route. Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.

  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 3
    hard E7 0 of 1
    E7 0 of 1
    easy E7 0 of 1
    hard E6 0 of 1
    E6 1 of 1
    easy E6 0 of 1
    hard E5 0 of 1
    E5 0 of 1
    easy E5 0 of 1
    hard 6c 0 of 1
    6c 0 of 1
    easy 6c 0 of 1
    hard 6b 0 of 1
    6b 1 of 1
    easy 6b 0 of 1
    hard 6a 0 of 1
    6a 0 of 1
    easy 6a 0 of 1
    3 Stars 1 of 1
    2 Stars 0 of 1
    1 Star 0 of 1
    0 Stars 0 of 1
    Bag of ..... 0 of 1

    Please Login to your Rockfax account to rate this climb.