Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 6
The jutting prow that lurches out over the sea above the downclimb into the Great Cave provides the line for this sensational and non-tidal pitch. Competent seconds and some prusiks are essential. Done in a single-pitch, the grade is more like E3 due to communication and rope management difficulties. Start above the steep section of the descent route to the Great Cave where a right to left weakness gains access to the headwall.</br>1) 5a, 22m. A stiff pull up into the depression is followed by a rising leftward traverse for 15m to a belay at a thread on the edge of the arete.</br>2) 5b, 35m. Make a hard move down left to enter the bottomless bay to the left which is crossed to airy moves up the arete and into a hanging groove. Climb the groove to a roof and make the crux move past its left edge to easier ground and belays on ledges above. Walk off to the right. Not in current guidebook.
Well worth 3 stars, fantastic positions, better than Moonraker. More Spacewalking than The Moon on Anglesey!
Certainly an interesting route. Amazing positions and decent gear (take lots of cams) on the one hand, disgusting rotten rock, loose blocks/grass/snails top-out and a bit of a death-scramble exit detract somewhat. Do it and make your own mind up, but prepare for a bit of an adventure!