Incubus

3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
 E1 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Caribbean Blue < Call to Arms  |  False Gods > Up the Styx, Without a Paddle >>


A lesson in adventure on a route with a fearful name and reputation gives a sensational trip onto the Sanctuary Wall at a reasonable grade. Start at the notch on the landward side of the Sanctuary Wall. Photo on page 1.
1) 5b, 9m. From the notch, step down over the void, and make a tricky move left onto an easier ramp. Follow this a short way, peg, to a flat ledge and belay.
2) 5b, 20m. Take the corner above and pass the overhang on the left by via a steep layback. Easier climbing gains the top. Nuts and an iron spike just below the ridge.
FA. Pat Littlejohn, Peter Biven 30.3.1968

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