Wall of the Evening Light
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A majestic free version of the first two pitches of this Edwards epic from the 70s. It gives one of the longest and most sustained climbs in the area which the first ascensionist described as a "massive overhanging excursion on jugs". It is best climbed in one long pitch although the aided version split it.
50m. Starting from a short distance up the ramp of Gemstone move up the line of gear to a porthole at 15m. Leave this (hard) to a hand ledge then traverse left (optional stance on the lower-off to the left). Move back right and climb a line of small scoops to a shake out. Move left and follow a corner to the belay. There are 16 bolts plus some old pegs so you shouldn't get lost. Double abseil for descent.
FA. R.Edwards, F.Harvey 2.4.72. The final push to complete the route took 16 hours. FFA. of pitches 1 & 2 - A.Pollitt, M.Pretty 7.7.88