Grease Paint and Monkey Brains

1 Stars
Technical
 6a

Adjacent Routes
<< The Fabulous Bakery Boys < Captain Lob Meets the Nipple Pincher  |  Indian Summer > Blowing Chunks >>


A long arete, well endowed with some good jugs leads to a ledge with two technical options above. The best is to use the flake on the right.
FA. Neil Burton 14.10.1996

USER COMMENTS

A pleasent 6a that requires you to think unexpectedly after rampant jug pulling.
ben stokes - 21/May/01

Jugs to a tricky move up the bulging arete, then a flake and quite a hard pull to reach the lower-off. Average. Wouldn't give it a star, myself.
Gav McGrath - 21/Mar/05

Mid-height moves can be tricky for some; the last move up to the lower-off is more exposed than it needs to be. Scarier than its right-hand neighbour.
silhouette - 18/Jul/05

Very tricky and pumpy for the short at the mid height crux, worth 6a+.
Brian Wilkinson - 11/Sep/06

Bit run out on the last move
John Alcock - 21/May/07

A lovely natural line with some thought-provoking moves. Spoilt only by the ledge. Good 6a
John Parker - 03/Aug/08

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 49
    hard 6a+ 0 of 24
    6a+ 0 of 24
    easy 6a+ 5 of 24
    hard 6a 12 of 24
    6a 4 of 24
    easy 6a 3 of 24
    hard 5+ 0 of 24
    5+ 0 of 24
    easy 5+ 0 of 24
    3 Stars 0 of 25
    2 Stars 3 of 25
    1 Star 12 of 25
    0 Stars 10 of 25
    Bag of ..... 0 of 25

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