Very Sleepy River Top 50

2 Stars
Pumpy
 6b

Adjacent Routes
<< Popeye Doyle < French Connection UK  |  Edge Hog > Appleturnoverload >>


Superb flowstone formations on the fingery and technical upper wall. Climb the fist-sized, overhanging crack to a point where the enticing drape of flowstone on the right can be accessed. Climb slightly rightwards up the tricky flowstone whose difficulty gradually eases.
FA. Damian Cook 12.9.1992

USER COMMENTS

Great jug on the flowstone (right hand) just when you need it. Brilliant
Spawny - 10/Aug/00

Great route but it is rather bold in a couple of places.
John - 01/Jun/01

Excellent route. Bit bold between clips 2 and 3 but holds aplenty and nice moves. Recommended
Jason - 25/Sep/01

Desperately needs another bolt between bolts 2 and 3. It's a foul move if the crack is at all damp. Top section has one very hard move if you're short. Still a very good climb, equivalent to an E4 I thought.
John Alcock - 19/Aug/02

Good route, didnt seem too bold to me. For the best climbing go straight up the flowstone where the bolts go and dont wimp out on the left where theres often lots of chalk!
Al - 09/Sep/02

for my money best 6a+ on Portland
with so many variations I never get bored,
needs its own belay though
nealh - 29/Sep/04

Looked run-out between bolts 2 and 3 but didn't feel it when climbing (maybe because the crack wasn't greasy!). Nice flowstone climbing high-up.
Wilbur - 30/May/06

agreed, looks a bit bold, but the climbing is so good and positive, and i think it adds a lot to the challenge of the climb. i think about the same difficulty as reptile smile and if not for that this would be the 3 star classic of the area around this grade.
Iain Cattanach - 31/Jul/06

Great climbing, although you'd scrape the ground if you fell clipping the 3rd bolt. 4 bolts in 22 metres.
Iain Moodie - 22/Jun/09

fab warm up for harder routes in the area
Jus - 20/Sep/09

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.

  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 69
    hard 6b+ 0 of 35
    6b+ 0 of 35
    easy 6b+ 1 of 35
    hard 6b 4 of 35
    6b 21 of 35
    easy 6b 7 of 35
    hard 6a+ 2 of 35
    6a+ 0 of 35
    easy 6a+ 0 of 35
    3 Stars 12 of 34
    2 Stars 20 of 34
    1 Star 2 of 34
    0 Stars 0 of 34
    Bag of ..... 0 of 34

    Please Login to your Rockfax account to rate this climb.