Meg's Got Leukaemia Top 50

2 Stars
Pumpy
 6a

Adjacent Routes
<< In Dust We Trust < Ironhead  |  Cinema Paradiso > Skin Flick >>


Great jug hauling to a fingery finish.
FA. Simon Vaughan 10.1992

USER COMMENTS

Steep, but those holds just keep on coming!
Nic - 11/Jul/00

The name for this route derived from the fact that for some reason most of the T.V watching types in the U.K at this time were hung up on the 'Home and Away '
series and a certain pretty young thing named Meg was suffering a 'have to leave the show, must develop a terminal illness ' scenario. Such quality viewing from Aus would never escape discerning British T.V hounds ?????

Regards
S.Vaughan
Sydney, Australia

P.S - Hello to Steve Taylor, Pete Oxley, Mike Robertson and little Steve ( Carol's Steve ). Please get in touch via the above e-mail address and I'll give you some real gossip. By the way, do you want to hear what Mike and I got up to at Escalade 99 in the Blue Mountains - very scary. I seem to remember grabbing Johnny Dawes nuts in the pub half way through a conversation for some reason. I think he was after my girlfriend, or was it me ???
S.Vaughan - 14/Jul/00

This is an excellent route worth a couple of stars.
Al Evans - 26/Mar/02

I Planned to go on this route but ended up on a route a couple of feet to the right of it(extra line of bolts) between 'MEGS GOT LEUKAEMIA' AND 'CAPTAIN KLUTZ AND THE SAILORS OF FORTUNE'. Any ideas as to what this is grade wise??? I thought about 6a+/6b, a bit dirty at the start, but worthwhile as you get higher (9B to L/O).
ANY IDEAS???
Paul - 29/Jul/02

Well has anybody any ideas, I cant find it in any of the latest updates?
Al - 01/Oct/02

Major Mushrooms and that
Mentally Muffled Mentality 6c
Climb the conglomerate wall right of Captain Klutz and the Sailors of Fortune to a higher ledge. A tricky few moves via a shallow groove lead onto the wall and a slim overlap above. Pull over to the BB.
FA. G.Gibson 9.5.2002

From just right of the last route and utilising the same belay climb the prominent blackened streak left of a wide corner line directly by pleasant sustained moves directly to the BB of the last route.
FA. G.Gibson and H.Gibson 4.5.2002

from: http://www.dorset-climbing.net/new_routes_2002.pdf
JD - 01/Oct/02

The route to to the right is allegedly 6B, and climbed by Mick Ward. Mick - any chance of you passing the details of this and your other routes to me?

The route just to the R of Captain Klutz is Major Mushrooms and that Mentally Muffled Mentality F6C
Steve Taylor - 02/Oct/02

Cheers for the response, 6b is about right, tah very much!!!
Paul - 05/Nov/02

Great soap knowledge SV, great route as well!!
Ant B - 17/Mar/03

The route to the right of MGL is Cinema Paradiso. Its good after the first 20ft and well worth a star, about the same grade as MGL. Nice one Mick. Isnt it about time somebody bolted Poppadom? A 3 star classic 6a wating to be done :-) (instead of a shit E1 5a that nobody does (controversial)
Al - 17/Apr/03

Great route but loose sections at top, pulled a nice sized block down towards my be-layer who dived out the way - impressive stuff
Alex - 14/Jun/04

jugs, jugs, jugs, jugs, jugs, jugs...... and then suddenly slopey crimp and a palm for the lower off - makes you think at the end!
Wilbur - 28/Jul/04

I thought the route was pretty dissapointing and hard for 6a (6a+ would be right), but having read these comments and seeing the photo above (not the route I climbed) it appears I was climbing Cinema Paradiso to the right. Some good moves in the last 20feet but the bottom third is thrutchy and awkward and I nearly took a lob off the middle section when a crimpy hand hold disintegrated, typical unnerving move to clip the lower off like many routes at Portland aswell.
Richard Horn - 01/Nov/04

Cinema Paradiso is loose take care around the top
Alex - 27/Dec/04

Is this route named after the Cinema Paradiso in Wanaka, NZ? The one with the car and home made cookies?
Alex - 29/Dec/04

Big, juggy, steep. An excellent route. Quite like the name, too.
Gav McGrath - 21/Mar/05

Ripped a hold off this over the weekend and nearly decked. Shouldn't affect the grade but beware as i didn't think it was friable at all the first time i did it but it must be!! (or i'm fat, which is a possibility!)
Wilbur - 03/May/05

this is the hardest route i have completed so far. it is juggy most of the way but near the top tere is such a dificult bit and the very top i did a heal hook to a rockover. not sure if that was were i was supposed to go and not sure how i didn't fall as my legs were shaking more than a vibrator!!!
nugget - 18/Apr/06

Great climb. May have been off route a bit, but seemed to have a choice to go right or left near the top to a lower off. Went right which was okay.
Michel Schonewille - 12/Nov/06

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 76
    hard 6a+ 0 of 41
    6a+ 0 of 41
    easy 6a+ 0 of 41
    hard 6a 15 of 41
    6a 24 of 41
    easy 6a 2 of 41
    hard 5c 0 of 41
    5c 0 of 41
    easy 5c 0 of 41
    3 Stars 3 of 35
    2 Stars 28 of 35
    1 Star 4 of 35
    0 Stars 0 of 35
    Bag of ..... 0 of 35

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