Spanner Eyes

2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
 7b

Adjacent Routes
<< Slings Shot < Crocadilia  |  England's Dreaming > Cake Walk >>


Move up and then left to beneath a thin crack. Ascend the crack and move left to more hard moves and a precarious rockover before easier ground is encountered.
FA. Will Jones 8.1996

USER COMMENTS

Andy Long has replaced the old bolts with staples
steve taylor - 20/May/05

The big jug has now decided to be on the floor! A bit harder, but doesn't effect the grade, just makes it worth the 7b.
JIMBO - 06/Nov/06

Out of interest where was this jug???
Ben Stokes - 14/May/07

This was the jug about half way up which made the initial undercut moves easy to get into and then you would have stood on it for an easy clip...
JIMBO - 14/May/07

Actually, I'm glad it's not there anymore. I thought the moves as they are now were really good.
Ben Stokes - 15/May/07

very good route! equally as good as the one on the right! movea are brilliant and im not afraid to say scarey as well! the bolt below the scarey mantelshelf crux definitely feels along way below you, as your pumped and holding on to this big moist pinch thats almost to big to holf gurning to get your foot on! very enjoyable and highly recommended! i had to man up for sure haha
andy schof - 01/Mar/09

Agree that this route is brilliant and under-rated. England's Dreaming has the looks but the moves on Spanner Eyes are almost as good. No particularly hard moves (for 7b) but there are some spicy moments just when you are getting a bit pumped.
Nick - 30/Jun/10

Brilliant route, one of my favorites. Certainly gets the heart beating on the mantel move, safe fall but plenty of air time.
Richard Dagnan - 10/Aug/10

some beta please?!
tried this saturday - but where's the mantel? is it the grey band - or has that fallen off too?!
crux for me was between the undercuts and the next grey band (mantel onto the grey band was fine i thought!). do you use the far left hand layback and rock over onto the lower grey band, or stick with the direct line and go for the thin pocket above the opposing side pulls?
ianb - 21/Mar/11

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.

  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 18
    hard 7b+ 0 of 10
    7b+ 0 of 10
    easy 7b+ 1 of 10
    hard 7b 1 of 10
    7b 8 of 10
    easy 7b 0 of 10
    hard 7a+ 0 of 10
    7a+ 0 of 10
    easy 7a+ 0 of 10
    3 Stars 0 of 8
    2 Stars 6 of 8
    1 Star 2 of 8
    0 Stars 0 of 8
    Bag of ..... 0 of 8

    Please Login to your Rockfax account to rate this climb.