Downtown Julie Brown Top 50

3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
 6c

Adjacent Routes
<< Freaky Ralph < Aim High, Shoot Low  |  Reptile Smile > Talking Smack >>


A fingery climb, and the first of the superb flowstone pitches on this section of the crag. Start by climbing the wall just right of the bolts to good holds. Ascend the increasingly-technical wall via a thin move and small undercut to an easier finish on the left.
FA. Pete Oxley 12.9.1992

USER COMMENTS

An exellent route which is hard for 6c. Should be 6c+ to be correct in the grade.
Shaggy - 14/Apr/00

I'm normally paranoid about polish but I didn't notice it here.
stone - 31/May/01

Great route with superb holds. Mostly plessy 6b climbing with one tricky move that brings it up to 6c.
Ed - 17/Jul/01

I thought this was brill with a nice technical crux. Poorly bolted around the crux section though.
ben stokes - 04/Mar/02

Felt slightly runout above crux which was a good thing and added to the experience. Hard for 6c - 6c+ maybe?? Dunno
stp - 19/Aug/02

Agree with all the above. Poor bolt placement makes it feel slightly bold on the crux.
John Alcock - 19/Aug/02

6C+? You Guys must be kidding. You probably mean 6b+. Where's the tricky move?
wladoo - 26/Mar/03

Definitely 6c if you go right on the tricky move (bifinger hold); I think it's easier if you go left, but I don't think the route is there. Wonderful route
Enrico - 16/Sep/04

definitely 6c
definitely polished
definitely total class
nealh - 29/Sep/04

There are two ways to do the crux- direct off the rather crap 2 finger 'pocket' which is easily a 6c move, or keep left to avoid using this hold.
Can't recall thinking it was at all badly bolted, but was a bit loose near the belay as I pulled a brick sized lump of mud + shingle off in my hand.
Max_01 - 13/Apr/05

Did this route way back in '94!, definately tricky 6c then, but I feel after a re-ascent yesterday this route should now be 6c+ in light of .the loss of holds low down and polish on the crux
Rob Kennard - 23/Apr/06

A great route. The climbing grade is a bit uneven. The key sequence involves two moves which feel like english 6a to me, but the rest of the climb is quite easy, if a bit poorly bolted above the crux. So the 6c guide in the grade is probably fair. Indoor walls often adopt the obviously uncool but actually informative policy of reporting technical and french grades. It would have helped here.
tony yates - 30/May/06

i can nearly always manage 6C, either onsight or rest-assisted, but backed off this: crux felt bold / tenuous
ksjs - 23/Jul/06

Very good. Loses a star for the dirty top. No polish that I noticed.
Iain Moodie - 22/Jun/09

not polished like some holds england's dreaming. one of the best 6cs anywhere.
Jus - 20/Sep/09

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 119
    hard 6c+ 0 of 63
    6c+ 0 of 63
    easy 6c+ 24 of 63
    hard 6c 16 of 63
    6c 21 of 63
    easy 6c 1 of 63
    hard 6b+ 1 of 63
    6b+ 0 of 63
    easy 6b+ 0 of 63
    3 Stars 17 of 56
    2 Stars 36 of 56
    1 Star 3 of 56
    0 Stars 0 of 56
    Bag of ..... 0 of 56

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