Reptile Smile Top 50

3 Stars
Pumpy
 6a+

Adjacent Routes
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A well-established and testing classic that features climbing on an amazing set of flowstone organ pipes. Move up easily rightwards, and pass a thread (sometimes missing) to the first bolt. Climb the flowstone pipes which gradually ease off after some difficult pulls low down.
FA. Pete Oxley 12.9.1992

USER COMMENTS

An overrated route. The rock is good and the features superb but the climbing is just not nice.
Gary - 22/Jul/00

A very entertaining route. You just have to stop and feel all of the shapes of holds as you climb by them. A little tougher to climb in a heavy rain, but my shoe still didn't slip. Lots of fun.
René Keyzer-André - 14/Aug/00

Brillient rock but less than brillient climbing...totally overrated
ben stokes - 15/May/01

Nice rock and interesting holds, but an overrated experience.
Ewan - 03/Jun/01

WHAT A WEIRD CLIMB. THE GRADE IS EASIER FOR THUGS.
ANDREW MACKINTOSH - 24/Nov/01

Going straight up above the 2nd bolt seems quite hard (around E2 5c or f6b) though going R makes more sense.
stp - 19/Aug/02

Like many i specifically visited this area for the SO CALLED flowstone classic, but was thoroughly disappointed, YUK ... however, the visual experience and the many worth while other routes make the visit a NOT TO MISS.
Eddy - 05/Nov/02

I dont understand these comments, its not thuggish, its technical, if anything its underated, I have done it several times and I think its one of the best routes of its type in the UK if not the world, seriously I am not joking, what the bloody hell do you want from a 3 star route, perfect rock (yes) interest throughout (yes) great positions (yes) a level of uniqueness (yes) As far as a bolt route can be this scores heavily as a major classic.
Al - 17/Apr/03

agreed, i found it very enjoyable, if a little high in the grade, if only because i felt run out as hell for a 6c between the last two bolts. great fun though
richard stokes - 05/Aug/03

Very nice route. I've never climbed on a rock like that, with all that pipes and so. Very continuous climb and enjoyable
Enrico Gili - 07/Aug/03

my first sport route in britain, very nice, i had to think as not all the moves are obvious
Neil - 04/Nov/03

First bolt has RECENTLY gone AWOL so start involves approx 25' runout. Easy but v hairy for the nervous. Great climb but pumpy as you like and nowhere to rest. Just keep going!
Owen W-G - 27/Apr/04

First bolt has mysteriously reappeared.
Owen W-G - 23/Jun/04

Really ? first bolt appeared to be missing when I did it (well it was at the same height as sling shots first clipable bolt and that has clearly lost the first one as you can see the holes). Until this situation is addressed I suggest the use of slings around the threads at about 12 feest. I guess if this situation is deliberate its beacuse the rock is too friable around that area to hold bolts ?
Woker - 27/Jul/04

talk about the fast food generation!
No its not perfect, but the rock is pretty
unique for the u.k. the missing bolt was pulled from scales not reptile smile years ago by a visiting climber who wanted to test the strength of bolts on tufa- he went away happy.
nealh - 29/Sep/04

There are a couple of in situ slings threaded in the area where the first bolt was (14-Nov-2004)
TRNovice - 14/Nov/04

Involving and very pretty to look at - a great route. The bulge to the second bolt is a commitment, but there are some lovely moves higher up. The sling at about 15ft are a good substitute for a bolt.
Henry - 29/Mar/05

I had long awaited doing reptile smile having seen it done afew times in the past. I loved every second of it. I fell off at the top after being thugged out after a whole days leading up to it. It is a brilliant route and deserves every star it has. I cant help thinking that it should be 6b but anyway its brilliant value for 6a plus!! Next time i wont fall off!!
Choire (Corrie) - 06/Jul/05

There is just no pleasing some people, Tufa climbing is a rarity in this country and is obviously alien to some people, i thought it was a great route,and right for the grade!!
ADRIAN PEDLEY - 30/Aug/05

stiff at the grade. pregnant pause felt like a path after doing this! benchmark 6a+ and a fantastic route to boot..
Wilbur - 02/May/06

wicked climb technical (especially if small) love it
Eve Herrington - 14/Aug/06

Some bizzare comments about what is really a great climb of its type.I can only infer that many of the writers haven't climbed on tufas or flowstone.First bolt missing(sling) and second bolt is not in the best place but the climbing is great. Last weekend was my first visit to Portland and its brilliant!
Andy Birtwistle - 15/Oct/06

Beauty, climb it as the sun sets and the rock glows!
Alex - 05/Jun/07

Brilliant!
Dave Foster - 22/Aug/08

Great route that needs a very positive approach, whether it's pinching and laying away on tufas or crimping on flatties near the top. Total classic.
John Parker - 05/Jul/09

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 211
    hard 6b 0 of 106
    6b 0 of 106
    easy 6b 12 of 106
    hard 6a+ 37 of 106
    6a+ 51 of 106
    easy 6a+ 5 of 106
    hard 6a 1 of 106
    6a 0 of 106
    easy 6a 0 of 106
    3 Stars 71 of 105
    2 Stars 26 of 105
    1 Star 8 of 105
    0 Stars 0 of 105
    Bag of ..... 0 of 105

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